A day to enter the wilderness where no villages or settlements are there until you are within striking distance of the Indus Valley. The trail follows deep gorges and high passes. Past the dilapidated fort and stupas at Zangla, the trail enters a side gorge and then descends. Trailing 1km on the right, you will face the first of many river crossings. The trail cuts through willow thickets for about 6km and the gorge widens into a broad valley called Sumdo. Camp overnight at a flat but non-grassy campsite (3800m).

The trail ascends eastwards into a dry silent valley and gradually winds up a series of ‘scree steps’ before cutting out of the valley to the final 200m to 300m steep climb to the Char-Char La pass (4950m). Ascending the Char-Char La is the first challenge of the trek which is not without compensation. The numerous views of the ridges and gorges of the Zanskar and the Himalayan Ranges treats your eyes as far as it can see.

After savouring the view, the trail descends and follows the course of the Tilat Sumdo stream and winds up at some points where the gorge is too narrow to negotiate. You will have to wade through the stream at more than one section where the trail actually follows the stream. At the confluence of two gorges, you will find the campsite (4000m) which is a legacy of many migrations to Zanskar. Time from the pass to camp is around two to 21/2 hours.

At this stage, the thought that only a handful of trekkers will follow this route each season will give you a unique experience because here the remote gorges, constant wet boots and numb toes appeals to your true adventure spirited senses like no other. To reach Tilat Sumdo, normally it takes six to seven hours but in late summers you have to split this stage as the water levels get higher after 10 am.

From the camp the trail reaches after about 11/2, at the confluence of a tributary from where the gorge widens but constant twists and turns and river flows into the main gorge makes it hard to get a true indication of your location. Further 2km, you will reach to the confluence with the Khurna River, where prayer flags offer you a welcome sight. Crossing the silent waters will reach you to the campsite at Tilat Sumdo.

The third day through the narrowing and widening of gorges is just as remote and challenging as the previous two. As you come to grips with the true dimensions of this vast wilderness region, it feels just as spectacular!

It’s a cold start as you wade up the Khurna River in waist-high water. Initially, it’s just a matter of following the course of the gorge, switching from one river bank to the other as the terrain dictates. Around 20 river crossings and about two hours, you will reach the confluence of the Khurna River and the river flowing from the Rubrang La. Sight of prayer flags and small fire before heading up the side gorge provides much relief. The trail then winds through particularly narrow side gorge and high above the river bed until it descends and the gorge widens. Ascending gradually for about 31/2 to four hours, there is a grassy, flat and a comfortable campsite (4680m). Here, you could see the Himalayan Blue sheep (also known as Bharal), grazing the scant vegetation above the camp.

Another challenging stage. Heading up the valley from the camp for 3km, the trail ascends a small side gorge. A steep ascent until the gorge widens out and the pass can be seen. Heading up the trail to the peak of the pass. The Zalung Karpo La (5190m) affords views across the vast region of Rupshu and the 6000m snow-capped peaks in the vicinity of Nimaling. Leading the trail in the opposite direction of the double pass, where the other trail leads to Rupshu Valley, the trail descends to a steep side valley and a small gorge. About 4km down the trail, a grassy sheltered campsite (4680m) awaits you in warm anticipation after all of those challenges.

A relatively straightforward stage, heading down the broad valley, the trail passes through a narrow gorge. To the east of the valley, the summit of Kangyaze (6400m) looms large. Keeping down the main valley and crossing the streams, you will reach the confluence of the stream from the Zalung Karpo La and the river from Nimaling (4000m). Crossing the bridge and turning up, the trail leads to an established campsite at Thochuntse.

The final stage ascends the Kongmaru La (5150m) before the long and steep descent to the settlement of Chokdo (3800m). At Chokdo you will meet the motor able road where the car will pick you up and drives you to Leh. It takes you around one hour to reach to the town of Leh.